Makeup That Supports Acne - Prone Skin

Audit – what you’re using . Break the cycle. Control

Why would a makeup brand be talking about acne? As it makes sufferers feel very self-conscious, foundation is frequently applied as camouflage. Unfortunately it is often part of the problem in causing or making the problem worse. Second Baise foundations’ all natural ingredients won’t cause or worsen acne, but instead they contain anti-inflammatory and oil-hydration balancing properties that support the healing of acned skin.

The reason is simple - most readily available foundations are made from synthetic ingredients that block and irritate the skin. Compounding this, they are difficult to fully remove and the ingredients best at dissolving and shifting these foundations are also typically irritating to the skin. Even products labelled "noncomedogenic" are not necessarily suitable over acne as they may still contain irritating ingredients such as sulphates and perfume. The pattern of blocking and irritating skin can quickly create the ‘perfect storm’ of infection and inflammation triggering acne. The worse the breakout, the more makeup is used, and the cycle worsens.

Acne is not simply a cosmetic problem; what is happening under the skin’s surface needs to be treated. Although common, it is not ‘normal’ or healthy to have skin that is infected and inflamed. Skin is our largest organ, performing many different tasks, so its health is very important. Even though its onset may be understood and tolerated during the teenage years, acne may develop in adulthood despite having unblemished skin in your teens, and regardless of timing it is important to clear it.

There may be a presence of blackheads, whiteheads, pustules, ‘blind’ pimples, and deeper painful nodules and cysts that may last for weeks or months, feeling like a hard lump or knot under the skin. Not simply confined to the face and neck, acne may appear on the chest, shoulders and the back. Infected, inflamed skin actually adds a level of stress to the body.

Clearing up and covering up acne vulgaris is easier if you’re able to get onto it quickly, and it’s important that you don’t accidently further irritate, inflame or dehydrate the skin. Dehydrated skin will produce more oil to compensate, vigorous massaging of exfoliants and more irritating ingredients increases inflammation.

It is true but simplistic to say that clogged pores result in blackheads, whiteheads, pimples and cystic acne. It isn’t like when pipes are cleared of a blockage that the problem is solved. A once off dermabrasion decongesting skin won’t clear and keep acne away, although it may be good as part of the process.

The clogging may be caused by excess sebum, bacteria and / or congestion from dead skin skins that are slow to shed or a build-up of cosmetics. Even a small amount of congestion is enough to block the pore, triggering inflammation, and this is felt as pain and visible as swelling and redness. An overproduction of sebum that clogs pores is hormone driven, typical of what happens during the teenage years, during the menstrual cycle and even during pregnancy. A hormone imbalance causing acne may also be driven by an endocrine disorder such as polycystic ovarian syndrome. So finding out if there is an underlying medical problem may be necessary.

Depending on the severity, a topical medication may be recommended. These should be gently applied on the legions, not rubbed, to target surface bacteria, decongest the skin and reduce swelling. These may be over the counter or prescription only, and most commonly contain one of the following ingredients: benzoyl peroxide (best in a lower concentrations as it can be otherwise irritating to your skin) Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid antibiotics. Care is required since long term or heavy handed use can create problems, and some of these ingredients can make the skin more photo-sensitive and prone to UV damage and thinning.

Before you rush to consult a doctor, there are things you can do since acne can develop without a medical cause AND it can be minimised and cleared just by changing what you apply to your skin. Everyone is different in terms of the speed and degree of improvement, but it makes sense to do a ‘cosmetics audit’ at home a.s.a.p. It is counterproductive to still use problematic products while spending a fortune on treatments or medicines.

Check the labels on all your skincare and makeup, or online if the writing is too small. You do not want to apply synthetic colours, perfumes, skin stripping sulphates and a suite of petrochemicals. Even products marketed as being “dermatologist tested’ may include sulphates. A cleanser does not need to foam to clean, but does needs to be gentle. A lightweight all natural moisturiser may be all that’s needed afterwards for teenage skins, while adults may prefer the the addition of few drops of aloe, Hyaluronic Acid or Sea Buckthorn Oil. These also help reduce inflammation, support faster healing of legions and reduce scarring. All natural products are more widely available, from simple formulations to ones of a cosmeceutical calibre at a dermal clinic, but always make sure that there is full ingredients disclosure to avoid applying comedogenic, or skin blocking, and irritating synthetic ingredients.

Avoid sunscreens that use synthetic ingredients to absorb UV rays under the dermis, and instead apply a light layer of tinted zinc, or better still Second Baise foundation. Synthetic sunscreens typically contain many ingredients that will block and irritate skin, and will only be effective for a period of time before needing reapplication. Zinc however will continue protecting skin on top of the dermis blocking the entry of UV. This is important on blemished skin, as the sun’s rays can help to ‘set a scar’. Zinc is also a natural anti-inflammatory. Although primarily a foundation, Second Baise’s Zinc offers lasting UV protection.

Many mineral makeup brands include Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163) whilst claiming they are a 'clean' brand. Bismuth does occur naturally in the earth's crust, but it occurs rarely in nature. It is classed as a heavy metal (the only one that is non-toxic) and is the by-product of lead and copper refining. It is supposed to be lead free when added to cosmetics where it is used as a cheap filler. It results in a heavier feeling on the skin, and is a known irritant causing rashes and leading to inflammation. Being heavy it must be buffed or pushed into the pores for adhesion. Second Baise does not use Bismuth Oxychloride in its products, and recommends it is not applied over acne or used after salon treatments when skin is at its most vulnerable.

Rather than using an exfoliant that works by rubbing on the skin, it is better to exfoliate and decongest skin through the application of a peel either in a skin clinic or by using a thin application of plain yoghurt. (yes, yoghurt! It’s lactic acid is wonderful to both exfoliate and hydrate the skin) When there has been long term or cystic acne we would recommend having a series of clinic peels with a dermal therapist as clinics can tailor a peel type and strength to far more effectively decongest skin, loosen blackheads and refine pores.

Many clinics also offer light-based treatments to treat acne. Dermal therapists are trained to perform extractions, and may have an IPL machine that can effectively reduce acne scars. (Just make sure the technician is either a dermal therapist or a nurse as in some states there is no ruling about minimum qualifications regarding IPL and laser use.)

Having prior experience in beauty therapy, skincare manufacture and extensive collaboration with dermal therapists and dermatologists, at Second Baise we've seen what works and what doesn't. There are a variety of options to support the clearing of the skin so there is no need to suffer what can become a painful condition that leaves scars. What you apply to your skin matters, and effects its health! 

This article has been written by and is the property of Second Baise Oct 2024. It may not be copied or reproduced in any way without written permission from Second Baise.